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Located near the town of Gondar in the North Gondar Zone of the Amhara Region, Wolleka was once home to a small yet thriving community of Ethiopian Jews known for their craftsmanship, largely in pottery and metalwork. The two Wolleka synagogues still stand off the village’s main road, despite the town having lost all of its Jewish inhabitants.
A HISTORY OF THE BETA ISRAEL IN ETHIOPIA
The Beta Israel, also known informally as “Falasha Mura,” is a Jewish community with roots in Ethiopia that can be traced back centuries. They are often referred to as Falasha or Falasha Mura; however, that comes from the derogatory term for “landless,” or “wanderer" [1].
The Beta Israel lived in villages across northern and northwestern Ethiopia in the Simien Mountains, alongside the nation’s predominantly Christian and Muslim populations [2]. Tracing their lineage back to before the twelfth century B.C., the Beta Israel practiced a non-Talmudic form of Judaism, as they were cut off from the rest of the Jewish world for nearly a millennium [3]. For nearly two thousand years, these Jews were politically autonomous and had their own strongholds across northern Ethiopia [4]. From the thirteenth through the seventeenth centuries, Beta Israel armies engaged in violent conflict with neighboring Christian kingdoms and were subjected to aggressive missionizing [5]. They were denied land and sold into slavery if they refused to convert to Christianity [1].
In the mid-nineteenth century, the Beta Israel population had been reduced to an estimated 250,000 people, though their numbers continued to decline due to European missionizing and famine [6]. Those who converted to Christianity became known as the Falasha Mura or Zera Beta Israel, and those who refused to convert faced great prejudice within Ethiopia.
The Beta Israel made contact with other Jewish communities at the turn of the twentieth century. In 1908, the chief rabbis of 45 countries made a joint statement that they viewed the Beta Israel as Jewish; however, a rabbinic debate about their Jewish authenticity continued throughout the twentieth century [3]. In 1973, after divisive discourse, Israel’s Sephardic Chief Rabbi Ovadiah Yosef declared that the Beta Israel were eligible to make Aliyah (immigrate to Israel) under the Law of Return [7]. In 1975, Israel’s Ashkenazi Chief Rabbi Shlomo Goren accepted the Ethiopian Jews as well, ushering in the first efforts to organize the Aliyah process for thousands of Beta Israel [7]. Two major rescue operations brought Ethiopian Jews to Israel: Operation Moses in 1995, and Operation Solomon in 1991. Over 150,000 of these Ethiopian Jews and their descendants are in Israel today. Few Jewish communities remain in Ethiopia today, mostly consisting of Zera Beta Israel whose forefathers converted to Christianity.
DESCRIPTION
The town’s Jewish community had almost entirely emigrated to Israel in the 1980s and 1990s, yet it was an undeniably Jewish town. Mud huts are still topped with Stars of David, and mezuzahs adorn doorways [8]. The town is filled with many sculptures of the Queen of Sheba, Solomon, and their son Menlik, celebrating the Solomonic dynasty [9]. The current inhabitants of Wolleka still sell tchotchkes and crafts decorated with Hebrew words and the Star of David. The town, named Wolleka, is also informally called “Falasha Village,” a derogatory name used for the Beta Israel that means “landless” or “wanderer" [8].
A ten-minute walk from the main road, Wolleka is home to two former synagogues, directly beside each other, built by the Beta Israel community that once inhabited the rural village [8]. Both synagogues are made of mud and have thatched wooden roofs covered by rusted sheets of corrugated metal, though one is octagonal while the other is square [10].
Both the exterior and interior of the square synagogue are painted, with the mud exterior sporting turquoise Stars of David, and the interior a vertical pattern of red earth, ash, and water [8]. Set into the mud wall are a scattering of windows with blue shutters. This synagogue still stands today and is a popular tourist destination for those visiting Gondar.
The other Wolleka synagogue is octagonal, with a similar blue mud exterior. From the inside, the metal roof covering is visible through the wood and the space is absent of furniture [10]. This synagogue is believed to have been dismantled in 2010 and has been taken over by the village’s current inhabitants [9].
Some images of the Wolleka synagogue can be found at the following sites:
https://www.judaism-islam.com/27-beautiful-mosques-and-synagogues/
https://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/who-are-the-ethiopian-jews
https://thechristiannationproject.net/dulin/
https://www.africansynagogues.org/html/countries/ethiopia/ethiopia3.html
https://www.travelblog.org/Africa/Ethiopia/Amhara-Region/Gondar/blog-454816.html
https://jewishphotolibrary.smugmug.com/AFRICA/AFRICAEast/ETHIOPIA/AMHARA/ETFalashaVillageSynagogue/i-mcbx8cc
https://jewishphotolibrary.smugmug.com/AFRICA/AFRICAEast/ETHIOPIA/AMHARA/ETFelashaVillage/i-G99fWcC
© Mapbox, © OpenStreetMap
[1] Kaplan, Steven. The Beta Israel (Falasha) in Ethiopia: From Earliest Times to the Twentieth Century. NYU Press, 1992.
[2] Quirin, James. “The Process of Caste Formation in Ethiopia: A Study of the Beta Israel (Felasha), 1270-1868.” The International Journal of African Historical Studies 12, no. 2 (1979): 235–58. https://doi.org/10.2307/218834.
[3] Weiss, By Stewart. “The Beta Israel: The Return of a Lost Tribe.” The Jerusalem Post | JPost.Com, December 16, 2021. https://www.jpost.com/diaspora/the-beta-israel-the-return-of-a-lost-tribe-688940.
[4] Baer, Lara. “Interview with Bar Kribus about the Beta Israel Project and His Work at CERES.” CERES - Ruhr-Universität Bochum, March 28, 2023. https://ceres.rub.de/en/news/interview-with-bar-kribus-about-the-beta-israel-project-and-his-work-at-ceres/.
[5] Ashkenazi, Michael, and Alex Weingrod. Ethiopian Jews and Israel. Transaction Publishers, 1987.
[6] Kaplan, S. (1988). The Beta Israel and the Rabbinate: law, ritual and politics. Social Science Information, 27(3), 357–370. https://doi.org/10.1177/053901888027003004
[7] Bruder, Edith. African Zion: Studies in Black Judaism. Cambridge Scholars Publishing, 2012.
[8] Lidman. “How a Village Left behind by Jews in Ethiopia Became a Top Tourist Draw.” https://www.timesofisrael.com/how-a-village-left-behind-by-jews-in-ethiopia-became-a-top-tourist-draw/.
[9]“Ethiopia 2015.” Aardvark Israel, November 16, 2021. Accessed 10 July, 2023. https://aardvarkisrael.com/ethiopia-2015/.
Jacks, Timna. “The Last Living Jew.” The Falash Mura. Accessed July 10, 2023. http://thefalashmura.com/marye-negusie.
[10] Waronker, Jay A. “FORMER SYNAGOGUE AT WOLLEKA (DATE UNCERTAIN).” African synagogues, 2015. https://www.africansynagogues.org/html/countries/ethiopia/ethiopia3.html.