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Slat Trabelsiya (Tripoli) in Djerba (Jerba, Jarbah, جربة), Tunisia
Located in the village of Hara Seghira, Slat Trabelsiya has stood for centuries as one of the three smaller synagogues that live under the shadow of the village’s famed Ghriba synagogue.
Description of the Synagogue
Trabelsiya is a synagogue on the periphery of the more famous El Ghriba, it is neither as flashy nor as large. However, it still maintains a charm and aesthetic of its own: immediately upon entry, one is greeted by tinsel streamers that have been woven in between white banisters and bookcases, giving the front chamber a light, fun feeling. The rest of the synagogue is decorated here and there with these streamers, even the chamber where the manara is kept during the procession. With the presence of such things, it is easy for one to understand why the pilgrimage is likened to one big, communal party. [1]The doors to the manara chamber themselves are quite lovely, made entirely of wood and featuring engravings of the manara, the tree of life, and various other symbolic flora. The front door to the synagogue is similar in design, although the manara takes up most of its length and is more pronounced, and above it rests a golden Star of David. Next to the door is a small bookshelf, filled to the brim with old, leather-bound books and essays. As for the general architecture of the synagogue, it demonstrates more of a Libyan-Jewish aesthetic, in the sense that it’s relatively simple and humble. The structures are not grandiose and ostentatious, and the walls are only painted in blues and whites. This, combined with the name of the synagogue – “Tribalsi” being another pronunciation of “Tripoli,” the capital of Libya – both allude to the synagogue’s founders being of Libyan descent. [2]
A Brief History of Hara Seghira
Hara Seghira is the smaller of the two Jewish villages of Djerba, with the larger village being Hara Kebira. This has led to a sort of playful competition between the two villages: Hara Kebira, being the larger, enjoyed a perceived higher status, with more educated villagers and a comparably bustling economy. [1]
It is unknown when exactly the synagogue was founded; it was already an established landmark when Hara Seghira was first recorded on a map in 1587. Ever since then, it has been primarily known for the Ghriba, and for pilgrimages to the Ghriba. These pilgrimages were always honored by neighboring villages, even the Muslim ones, as they recognized their religious importance. [1]
Although Hara Seghira had a reputation as the smaller village, it still grew to a notable size of 1500 Jews by 1946. Unfortunately, not long after, the aftermath of WWII pushed the majority of those Jews to either France or Israel, in fear of retaliation. Presently, there are only 100 Jewish residents remaining in Hara Seghira. [1]
That being said, when the pilgrimage occurs every year, thousands flock from all over the world – namely France, the United States, and, of course, Israel – and turn the otherwise quiet village into a raucous, joyful epicenter of congregation. Tunisian tourist industries attempt to profit on this, but thankfully, the dominant force during these times are Jewish families, come to celebrate a truly wonderful ceremony. [1]
Importance of the Synagogue
Historically, the Ghriba has been (and continues to be) an important pilgrimage site for Jews. Its three surrounding synagogues, including Slat Trabelsiya, play a definitive role in this pilgrimage: at the height of its “joyfully disordered” celebrations, the manara (menorah) is carried from the Ghriba to all three synagogues, where they each host it for a brief time. The event is described as chaotic, but in a symbiotic way, with people of all ages joining in the procession – even the Muslims of the village take part in the festivities. [1]
Notes:
[1] Abraham Udovitch and Lucette Valensi, The Last Arab Jews: The Communities of Jerba, Tunisia(Chur: Harwood Academic, 1984). accessed July 29, 2018
[2] Paul Sebag, “Djerba,” Les juifs de Tunisie: Images et Textes, ed. Jean-Pierre Allali (Paris: Biblieurope, 1997), pp. 126–134. accessed July 30, 2018
Bibliography:
Sebag, Paul. “Djerba.” Les juifs de Tunisie: Images et Textes, ed. Jean-Pierre Allali (Paris: Biblieurope, 1997), pp. 126-134. accessed July 30, 2018
Udovitch, Abraham and Lucette Valensi. The Last Arab Jews: The Communities of Jerba, Tunisia. Harwood Academic, 1984. accessed August 1, 2018
Tunisia Trip Summer 2016
Write-up by Madeline Carpou, August 5 2018.