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Nissim Eshkenazi (Ashkenzi) Synagogue, Cairo, Egypt
Despite its name, the Nissim Ashkenazi Synagogue is not an Ashkenazi synagogue. Rather, it is named after Rabbi Nissim Ashkenazi. [1] It is a synagogue of contrasts; all the surfaces are greyed with dirt and blocks of sunlight tumble through the windows. At your feet rest broken stones and splintered wood while above your head is a “blue cupola painted with stars”. [2] This synagogue is sometimes referred to as the Nouby Ashkenazi synagogue.
Description
History of the Synagogue
The Nissim Ashkenazi Synagogue is located in the el Daher district of the Al-Waili neighborhood of Cairo. The entryway is on the southwest corner of the building, facing Al-Kawa Street. [3] Some believe that the synagogue was established in 1890, making it one of the oldest synagogues in the area. [4] However, other sources claim that the synagogue was established by Yacoub Askenazi in 1913. [5] Regardless, the synagogue was established around the turn of the 20th century. The opening of the Suez Canal in 1896 and the resulting economic prosperity attracted Jews from Europe as well as Arab countries. [6] However, the establishment of Israel marked a “second exodus” and by 1950, one-third of Egypt's Jewish community had left. [7] The Sinai Campaign in 1956 and Six-Day War in 1967 provoked further emigration to Israel, France, Canada, Australia, and the United States. [8] The synagogues of Cairo fell into disrepair after the mass population decline and, since the 1970s, at least 20 synagogues have been destroyed. In 1995, the prime minister issued a decree that registered Nissim Ashkenazi as an antiquity. [9]
The Synagogue
Walking along Al-Kawa Street, the synagogue may not look like much. A two-story building with cracked concrete and rusted gates, it seems as if no one has been inside for decades. [10] But despite the disrepair, the interior is stunning. The beautifully constructed ark shines through the peeling paint and piles of rubble. Benches are strewn throughout the interior -- some piled in stacks, others relegated to a dusty corner, and most of them upturned. Columns running through the aisle and balcony draw your eyes upward to the ceiling, patterned with stars. Some Light floods in from unevenly boarded windows, but most of it comes from the dome overhead. At its center, there are two overlapping stars of David. The base of the dome creates an octagonal shape in the ceiling and windows along each side. The sun coming through these windows cuts the heaviness of the ceiling and makes the dome seem light enough to float away. During the day the wooden lattice of the ceiling, window light, and star patterns create a dizzying radial symmetry — which is remarkable to witness.*
Sources
Notes
[1] Herbert Israël, "Yskor," in Los Muestros, March 22, 1996, Institut Sépharade Européen, Accessed June 18, 2018. http://sefarad.org/lm/022/yskor.html.
[2] David Hirsch, “Remembering the 80s,” Bassatine News, Accessed June 18, 2018. http://bassatine.net/bassa10.php.
[3] Samar Samir, "Fallen from Grace: Rabbi Hayyim El-Imshati Synagogue." Egypt Today. Accessed June 18, 2018. https://www.egypttoday.com/Article/4/38844/Fallen-from-Grace-Rabbi-Hayyim-El-Imshati-Synagogue.
[4] Ibid.
[5] Samar Samir.
[6] Amiram Barkat, "The End of the Exodus from Egypt," Haaretz, January 14, 2018. Accessed July 18, 2018. https://www.haaretz.com/1.4851502.
[7] Ibid.
[8] Ibid.
[9] Samar Samir.
[10] Ibid.
Works Cited
Barkat, Amiram. "The End of the Exodus from Egypt." Haaretz. January 14, 2018. Accessed June 18, 2018. https://www.haaretz.com/1.4851502.
Hirsch, David, “Remembering the 80s”. Bassatine News. Accessed June 18, 2018. http://bassatine.net/bassa10.php.
Isarël, Herbert. "Yskor,” In Los Muestros. March 22, 1996. Institut Sépharade Européen. Accessed June 18, 2018. http://sefarad.org/lm/022/yskor.html.
Samir, Samar. "Fallen from Grace: Rabbi Hayyim El-Imshati Synagogue." Egypt Today. Accessed June 18, 2018. https://www.egypttoday.com/Article/4/38844/Fallen-from-Grace-Rabbi-Hayyim-El-Imshati-Synagogue.
*Impressions and description based on videos found in Diarna archive.