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Rabbi Shalom Zaoui Synagogue, Rabat, Morocco

Description

The Synagogue:  Through the bright red courtyard, one enters the synagogue, whose Moorish style is visible via trilobal shapes on the windows, lamps resembling mosque lamps, and ceramic tiles with geometric forms.i In earlier times, the synagogue used to house the rabbi. However, during a recent restoration during the last decade, the plan has been transformed to contain a courtyard with an arcade, a small shrine, kitchen and storage space. At the entrance to the synagogue in the courtyard, a bath was installed; at the other end of the courtyard is a large space containing an oven and leading into the women's gallery.ii  

The Mellah:  The synagogue is located in the Mellah, the Jewish quarter, whose particular history reflects that of Rabat Jews. The Rabat Mellah, which is more recent than other Moroccan Mellas (like the Fez, Marrakech, and Salé ones), was planned and built in a singular moment between 1806 and 1807, when the Sultan Moulay Slimane ordered its creation in order to house the Jewish population of Rabat, which previously lived in the Medina. The Mellah was built on the site of fruit orchards. The site was chosen since it was within the walls of the Medina. It had a double function of separation and protection for the Jews. The Mellah had a political significance since its attacking was a vector of challenging the Sultan’s political authority.iii

For the Jews, living in the mellah was a painful experience, which initiated a wave of emigration, particularly to South America. Many newly wealthy families converted to Islam.iv  

Nowadays, many Jewish families live across the Mellah in the new city. Therefore, this area is named the Nouveau Mellah or new Mellah. The Centre de la Communauté Israelite and the new synagogue are also located there.v In 1998, there were 3 Jewish families living in the Mellah.vi  

Jews in Rabat:  Jews have lived in Rabat since pre-islamic times. Rabat and its twin city Salé, which is located on the opposite side of the Bou Regreg River (Ar. Wādī Abū Raqraq), were the only Moroccan ports never to have been captured by Christians. vii

The Sephardic “megurashim”, who were forced to leave Spain in the 15th century, tended to settle in the urban northern areas, which include Rabat, alongside Muslims from Al Andalus.viii In the 17th and 18th centuries, many Jews engaged in trading activities. They exported slaves, gold dust, ostrich feathers, dates, goat skins, indigo, linen, and wax to Europe and imported weapons. Jews occupied prominent positions in the administration of Rabat, serving as ambassadors to European powers with commercial interests in Morocco.

Trade fluctuated in the 19th and 20th centuries. When the French protectorate was declared in 1912, Rabat became Morocco’s capital, and its significance grew.ix Jews and Muslims from Rabat share historical and social characteristics, which unify them despite religious differences.x

A high percentage of Jews tend to live in cities, such as Rabat, compared to Muslims, who tend to be more rural. In 1881, 5,000 Jews used to live in Rabat-Salé.xi In 1947, there were more than 15,000 Jews in Rabat.xii After 1948, Moroccan Jewish population sharply decreased going from 265,000 in 1948 to 17,000 in 1976.xiii A wave of emigration started in 1949 when anti-Semitic measures were put forth in reaction to the creation of the State of Israel. Riots broke out in northern Morocco on June 4th, 1949, killing and injuring tens of Jews.xiv    Since the Moroccan independence of 1956, Jewish emigration has continued.xv Most of these emigrants went to France, the United States, Canada, and Israel.xvi 

Rabat, Morocco

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