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On 26A Wingaaba (Win Gabar) St. in a southern suburb of Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar, Baghdadi Jewish merchants Abraham and Ramah Cohen had an opulent summer home.
BACKGROUND
According to Ruth Fredman, author of Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, the first Jew to settle in Burma was likely not part of the Baghdadi Jewish diaspora. Instead, she believes that it was a Bene Israeli Jew named Solomon Gabriol who served in the army of Burmese King Alaungpaya (1752-1760). In the early 1800s, two European Jews, Solomon Reinman (who traveled through Kolkata’s Jewish community) from Galicia and Mr. Goldberg from Romania, as purveyors of key goods such as teak and bamboo to the British Army. After living in Rangoon in the 1840s, Reinman settled in Cochin, where an indigenous Jewish community had lived for centuries.[1]
Baghdadi Jewish traders from Kolkata would cross the Sea of Bengal and arrive in Burma’s Rangoon in the early 19th century when Rangoon became a pivotal port in the international opium trade that went through much of Southeast Asia. Baghdadi Jewish families from Baghdad, Basra, Syria, Egypt and other locales began to follow the traders and lay roots in Burma, establishing vibrant homes and Jewish institutions that included synagogues and mikvehs (ritual baths). Their massive network as Baghdadi Jewish traders afforded them an advantaged status in the eyes of the British as people who could tap into many different avenues of trade. Baghdadi Jews became integrated into Burmese society, working in shops and even as government officials and police officers; however, they did not, for the most part, consider themselves Burmese. They were Baghdadi-Jewish and, if anything else, British. In her book, Fredman quotes famous twentieth century Burmese-Baghdadi Jewish trader Ellis Sofaer, who wrote that it was “quite common in the early part of the nineteenth century for Jewish families in the Near East to be sprawled over the different Turkish dependencies like an outstretched net, and yet to remain cohesive.” The sites of Baghdadi Jews’ dispersion, wrote Sofaer, was most often strategic, not do with “sentiment.”[2]
The first Baghdadi Jewish traveler to settle in Burma was likely Azariah Samuel, who traversed from the city of Bunshire on the Persian Gulf with his shochet (ritual slaughterer) to the port city of Akyab (now Sittwe) in 1841.Within a couple of decades Samuel became a prosperous purveyor of wine and general goods. He started a family and had five children. The Samuels were the only Jewish family in Akyab, so they in some sense felt more a part of the Kolkata Jewish community, with whom they would often spend the holidays with. In 1931, the descendants of Azariah Samuel moved to Kolkata, and then to London and Sydney.[3]
While the Samuels set up shop in Akyab, other Baghdadi Jews settled elsewhere in Burma. In the early 19th century, brothers Judah and Abraham Raphael Ezekiel settled in Upper Burma’s Yadanabon (present day Mandalay). Later, David Hai Aaron also settled in Yadanabon, the royal city often dubbed the “City of Gems.” Mordecai Saul, the grandfather of Saul Ezra Saul, would come to make a fortune selling expensive perfumes in Mandalay. In 1878, a cruel King by the name of Thibaw took power, forcing the Ezekiel brothers to leave Upper Burma. After a falling out, Judah settled in Rangoon and Abraham in Bassein. Some Jews, such as Mr. Jacob and Abraham ben Aharon Cohen, settled in the port city of Moulmein.[4]
Most Baghdadi Jews, however, settled in the city of Rangoon, a port city on the Rangoon River, a tributary of the larger Irrawaddy River. Rangoon was an ideal location for merchants and for Jews and other religious minorities looking to practice their religion freely (the British allowed freedom of religion in their colonies). In the late 1800s, some Ashkenazim from Europe such as Jacob Cohen joined the Baghdadi Jews in Rangoon. In 1872, there were 83 Jews in Rangoon out of a total population of 98,138; in 1881, 172 out of 134,176; 1891, 219 out of 180,324; and by 1901, 508 out of 248,060.[5] The following are a few of the prominent Jewish merchants and businesses in Rangoon: Isaac A. Sofaer, Solomon & Co., David & Ezra Brothers, and Messrs A.V. Joseph & Co.[6]
With the advent of World War II and the invasion of Burma by the Japanese, the majority of Burmese Jews fled, with only about 200 returning after the war.
Today, only about 20 Burmese Jews remain together with just over 100 Jewish expatriates. They are led by Sammy Samuels, the grandson Isaac Samuels, one of the first Jewish settlers of Burma.[7]
SITE
At the height of Jewish life in Burma in the mid-to-late 19th century, wealthy Jewish merchants such as members of the Sofaer Family and Abraham and Ramah Cohen often spent time in an opulent suburb of Rangoon known as The Lakes. There, Abraham and Ramah Cohen had a home so extravagant that it made the mansions of the Sofaers and Sassoon Solomon appear small. The home was also equipped with a small zoo.
Fredman emphasizes that most Baghdadi Jewish families of Burma did not enjoy the luxuries of vacation palaces. She quotes Burmese Jew Abraham Shalom Judah who wrote that “during the early years [of the 1920s] we lived in a two bedroom flat on Sparks Street. One bedroom was my parents’ bedroom, and the other was occupied by my eldest sister with her husband. My mother had five daughters and one son (me). The rest of us would roll out our bedding on the floor of the sitting room, where we slept and each morning it was rolled up again.”[8]
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Footnotes:
[1]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 3.
[2]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 4.
[3]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 4-5.
[4]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 7.
[5]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 10.
[6]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 13-14.
[7]“The Story of the Jews of Burma,” European Jewish Congress, Sep. 3, 2020, https://eurojewcong.org/news/news-and-views/the-story-of-the-jews-of-burma/.
[8]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 25-26.
Bibliography:
[1]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 3.
[2]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 4.
[3]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 4-5.
[4]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 7.
[5]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 10.
[6]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 13-14.
[7]“The Story of the Jews of Burma,” European Jewish Congress, Sep. 3, 2020, https://eurojewcong.org/news/news-and-views/the-story-of-the-jews-of-burma/.
[8]Ruth Fredman Cernea, Almost Englishmen: Baghdadi Jews in British Burma, Lanham: (Lexington Books, 2007), 25-26.